Calle Navas
This small bar is dedicated to all things Semana Santa. Its walls are lined with Holy Week posters; the music is the solemn yet funky processional marches. Candles and wax abound.
We went early in the day, just as it had opened. The friendly though gruff proprietor duly gave us a tapas but being alone in the place was a little creepy so we ran away.
Tapa: cheese and tomato paste on bread with olives.
Service: 6-7
Quality: 4
Size: 5-6
Ambience: 5
Loos: 6
Returnability: 4
This bar is a Granadino institution. All wood panelling, artifacts from its proud past and an enormous bull's head mounted on the wall, la Bodegas is where the locals go to drink. And boy, do they drink. Cervecas and vinos are one thing, but the house drink here is "calicasas", an incredibly potent vermut-and-sherry-based concoction topped up with various squirts from random bottles. It is hugely drinkable and highly dangerous - two should be the maximum for any sane person (TapasPig's companion had four one night. That did not end well). The place is a frantic hive of activity, with staff bellowing orders and the cooks working flat out to deliver the traditional tapas and the huge platters of ordered raciones. No visit to Granada is complete without attending this place at least once but it is almost always rammed - elbow your way to the bar, fight for a spot and defend it for as long as you can! The tapas and service are variable and the loos aren't good but it's all worth it for the experience of a traditional, crazy tapas bar in all of its pomp. The service, quality and nature of the tapas is hugely variable (and sometimes you randomly don't get any) but don't let that put you off!
Examples of tapas:
Garlic mushrooms
Spicy tuna goo on bread and olives
Jamon, queso, bread and olives
Ensalada Rusa
Spanish tortilla
Ratatouille
Crabstick mayo salad
Quality: 5-8
Size: 6-8
Ambience: 8-9
Loo: 5
Returnability: 8-9
Calle Verónica de la Magdalena 40
Open daily 8pm-2am, tapas served until 12:30
http://www.barpoe.com/
Bar Poë is something of a legend. Its own website bills it as "world-famous" and that is perhaps something of an understatement. A favourite of students of all nationalities, locals and random tourists attracted by its constant appearance in guidebooks, this small bar is run by English expat Matt and his Angolan wife, Ana. Matt is the front man, ruling his domain from behind a bar which is large for the available space, whereas Ana cooks up delicious and fresh food from a set carta of tapas from which the purchaser of a drink can make their choice. The tapas is unusual for Granada, being of an international bent and with sometimes surprising spicy heat! The coconut chicken curry and the pork skewers were particularly outstanding but all of the food we tried on our two visits was fabulous. Matt was welcoming, segueing from Spanish to English with ease, and the ever changing crowd of the global youth Diaspora meant for a very lively atmosphere. The place is only really let down by disappointing boys' loos and, a probably unfair niggle, the difficulty of getting to the bar to collect the tapas due to the thronging hordes of students.
Tapas is a set menu from which selections are made. We had:
Pork and pineapple skewers
Chicken in coconut sauce with polenta
Chicken in spicy Thai sauce
Brazilian blackbean and pork stew
Spicy piri-piri pork stew
Service: 7-8
Size: 8
Quality: 9
Loos: 6-7
Ambience: 8
Returnability: 9
Just off Calle Navas/Rosario
"The Globe Place"
This is an enduring favourite - a buzzing bar full of locals, excellent and friendly service, quirky decor, loos larger than the average London flat, superb tapas and a wonderful location. Many happy hours and much vino blancos have been consumed on numerous visits to this welcoming and gastronomically special place.
Inside, the bar area is all dark wood furniture, decor made of used bottles and wine crates, and quirky touches, such as the enormous globe situated by the entrance to the loos. And what loos! Spacious, decorated like an Italian pastiche, and always well-supplied with paper (sometimes a rarity). There is a restaurant area at the back, but the tapa is too generous for us ever to have needed to order food. The service is friendly and once, when we exhausted their tapas repertoire, we were asked to choose our favourites as we continued. The wine is excellent and far too drinkable.
Example tapas:
Hot lomo (thin-sliced grilled pork) on bread
Hamburguesitas (mini pork hamburgers) and homemade chips
Ensalada Rusa (fish, egg and potato cold salad)
Meat stew and chips
Something delicious that was effectively a homemade Findus Crispy Pancake
Service: 8-9
Quality: 9-10
Size: 8-9
Ambience: 8-9
Loo: 9-10
Returnability: 9-10
Plaza Pescadaria (off Bib Rambla)
We were excited when this little bar opened up as previously it had looked pretty boring. The decor changed completely and it turned into what looked like a smart spot, with tables outside in a nice little sun trap.
But what a disappointment. The sign on the wall loudly proclaims tapas and, set where it is on a confluence of roads where great tapas abounds we expected good things. This was not to be.
With our first order came, eventually, a plate of bad olives and cheap crisps. With our second drinks came.... nothing. Disappointed, we left. We returned however, in case that day had been an aberration. It was not. We have also spied repeatedly on what people were getting with their drinks as we passed by to better places. Yep, olives and crisps. What a waste of a great spot.
tapas: horrible olives and crisps. And nothing else.
Service: 3
Size: 2
Quality: 2
Loo: 6
Ambience: 5
Returnability: 1
Plaza Romanilla - also known affectionately as Donkey Hotes Square: hence "The Donkey Place"
Plaza Romanilla is a lovely square off the cathedral and tucked behind the market at St. Agustin, just a stone's throw from the more touristy Plaza Bib Rambla. Romanilla seems to be more where the locals go, and many of our favourite tapas bars are here. Restaurant 530 Romanilla is an enduring favourite, with a classy interior, superb tapas, a long row of tables outside in the sun and friendly if abrupt staff. We will be found here at least once on every trip to Granada, no matter how short, and will usually stay for a significant number of refills of beer, good vino blanco seco or more recently their crisp and delicious cava.
From the vast selection of tapas we have had here, the following are notable:
hamburguesa (mini hamburgers)
calamari
abondigas (meatballs)
garlic clams
sliced fried potato with egg and peppers
chicken goujons
lomo (pork loin) on bread
Russian salad
Anchovies on avocado and bread
mussel croquetas
jamon e queso croquetas
slices of manchego
tempura prawns
Service: 8
Quality: 8
Size: 8
Ambience: 8
Loos: 7
Returnability: 9
Well worth a visit and then a meander around the other bars nearby. Admire the Donkey statue! We have also bought food here which has been good quality, though expensive.
Plaza Bib Rambla
Sibarius is something of an enigma. It's a Gastrobar, Japanese fusion, paella, steak and everything in-between kind of place. It appears only to employ incredibly beautiful staff (of either sex). It has a large outdoor eating space which in winter is heated and in summer has a spray system that periodically pumps out a fine mist of cooling water. Inside it is chic, all stripped back wooden furniture and black walls. There are also a few tapas tables outside which are fabulous sun traps. A lovely place to spend some time, inside or out.
The tapas is always good, though it is one of those places which sometimes misses out a round for no apparent reason. The beer is Alhambra (by far the best) and the wine is always good. We have also eaten at the restaurant which is extremely good, particularly the sushi.
Tapas we have had include:
Migas (fried breadcrumbs) with chorizo
Gazpacho
Russian salad
Tuna and orange cold stew
Service: 7
Quality: 7/8
Size: 7
Ambience: 8
Loos: 9
Returnability 8/9
Plaza Nueva
Los Diamantes is a Spanish institution. There are two on Calle Navas and both are constantly packed with locals noisily ordering drinks and consuming beautiful plates of fresh seafood, often of the deep-fried variety. A third branch on Plaza Nueva opened a few years ago and, whilst larger than its siblings is likewise constantly packed. Although a recent refurb has made it less funky, the food remains fantastic. Cold Alhambra beer in canas or crisp vino blanco seco served in tumblers perfectly complements the fabulous food. Get there early and stay there or there is no chance you'll get in!
Examples of tapas we have had on our many visits:
fried anchovies
spicy risotto with pork and seafood
fried King prawns
clams in garlic oil
deep fried vegetables
deep fried aubergines with honey and balsamic vinegar
mushrooms in garlic oil
razor clams
fried fish (various types)
herby chicken nuggets
Service - 8/9
Quality - 9
Size - 8/9
Ambience - 8/9
Loos- 6/7
Returnability - 9
Calle Elvira
Paprika is a rarity in Granada - a vegan tapas bar. Set into a wall near the Porta Elvira on the far end of Calle Elvira, it is decorated inside in eclectic style. Even for a devout carnivore its tapas has led to several returns since first discovering it in 2013.
Examples of tapas we have had include:
couscous
pepper dip with tortilla chips
guacamole with cucumber
Service - 6
Size - 6
Quality - 7
Loos - 7
Ambience - 8
Returnability 7/8
An excellent choice for vegans and vegetarians and a nice place to relax
